11 Best Chang Phuak Gate Night Market Food Stalls

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The best Chang Phuak Gate Night Market food stalls are Changphuak Suki (my personal favorite) and the famous Cowboy Hat Lady (the braised pork knuckle stew once enjoyed by Anthony Bourdain). 

I ate dinner at the Chang Phuak Gate Night Market multiple times a week when I was living in Chiang Mai – it’s easy to get to from the Old City and Nimman neighborhoods, not as chaotic as other night markets, and it’s delicious! There are always food tours stopping here, more proof that it’s special.

The prices are incredibly low, with most dishes costing less than 70 baht (less than $2 USD) – making it a great place for travelers on a budget. It’s also an ideal place for those looking for something more local and non-touristy while still being able to enjoy some tasty food. 

Many travelers hesitate about trying unfamiliar foods in foreign countries, but Chang Phuak Chiang Mai is a reliable place to dip your toes into Chiang Mai’s street food, and much less overwhelming than some of Chiang Mai’s larger night markets.

🤩 My favorite way to get to know a new city is by taking a food tour. This Northern Thai Food Tour will change your life. You’ll try hidden restaurants, street stalls, and local markets that most tourists never find and be transported in an iconic red rod daeng truck with a small group of hungry travelers. Come hungry because you’ll be trying more than 15 different dishes!

Chang Puak Gate Night Market Food Stalls Essential Info

• Hours: Daily 5PM-11PM

• Location: Just outside Chiang Mai’s Old City North Gate, across the moat @ 248/70 Manee Nopparat Rd, Tambon Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand

• Getting There: By foot, Grab taxi, Songhthaew, or Scooter

• Parking: Available on the street right in front of the market, but be careful pulling out

• Price Range: Dishes range from 40 baht – 100 baht ($1 USD – $3 USD)

• Payment: Cash or QR Code (if you have a Thai bank account)

• Best For: Dinner (no souvenirs or non-food goods sold here)

• Vegetarian Options?: Yes, there are some vegetarian options such as pad thai, vegetable stir fries, and bao.

1. Changphuak Suki (aka Suki Koka)

Changphuak Suki is the best of the Chang Phuak Gate Night Market food stalls, hands down. It’s easily in my top 3 favorite places to eat in Chiang Mai (my other favorites are Roast Chicken Wichienbury and Sushi Umai).

I think I love this sukiyaki even more than I love khao soi – and that’s saying something!

The only thing they serve at this stall is Sukiyaki, which is a Thai take on Japanese sukiyaki, but more similar to a Chinese dish than the Japanese one. Locals love sukiyaki!

They cook every sukiyaki plate fresh to order with lots of Chinese cabbage, your choice of meat (pork, chicken, beef, or seafood), glass noodles, egg, and the extremely delicious sukiyaki sauce — all you have to do is pour and mix! You can get the sukiyaki as a dry stirfry or as a soup, but I recommend it dry.

When you arrive, It looks like people are standing in line but they’re not – you need to ask the register for a number (tell them how many people are in your party), and there’s a screen that announces the number when a table becomes available. I’ve never waited more than 15 minutes for a table.

You’ll be asked to order at the register from a very simple picture menu: choose dry or soup (dry is better) and a protein. 

What to Order: Dry sukiyaki with pork and extra noodles

Price: Sukiyaki with pork or chicken costs 55 baht ($1.54 USD), with beef or seafood costs 65 baht ($1.82 USD); Extra noodles 10 baht ($0.28 USD)

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2. Cowboy Hat Lady (Chang Phueak Pork Leg Rice)

The Cowboy Hat Lady food stall at Chang Phuak Gate Night Market is a must-try for travelers in Chiang Mai, even though the lady who wears a cowboy hat doesn’t often work anymore.

This traditional Thai dish of braised pork knuckle (called Khao Kha Moo in Thai) should be at the top of your list of things to eat in Chiang Mai. The Cowboy Hat Lady has always been somewhat of an institution in Chiang Mai, was made world-famous by Anthony Bourdain (pour one out for Tony!), and has been a top culinary experience since. 

The classic dish is made with fatty, tender meat that melts in your mouth, cooked in a broth that has been simmering for years and served over steamed rice with a soft-boiled egg. Don’t forget to add their signature homemade chili sauce. 

I’ll be honest, I had really high expectations for this stall since all of my friends rave about it, but I was a bit underwhelmed by the flavor. Try it for yourself and let me know what you think!

One of my friends taught me a trick – you can tell them you don’t want fat and they’ll give you less fatty pieces of pork. 

What to Order: Stewed Pork Leg on Rice with Softboiled Egg

Price: small 60 baht ($1.68 USD) / large 80 baht ($2.24 USD)

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3. Suang Bualoy Changphueak (Dessert)

Suang Bualoy Changphueak at the Chang Phuak Gate Night Market is a great place to get a taste of a classic Thai dessert. 

The signature dish is the Bua Loy, which means “floating lotus” in Thai. It’s a local favorite that has been sold in this spot for many years, and its unique flavor has become quite popular with both locals and travelers.

The glutinous rice balls are perfectly cooked so they’re soft and not sticky, and the creamy coconut milk ties everything together perfectly and isn’t too sweet. 

Choose any extra toppings you want, with one topping included.

For those who have never tried this Thai dessert before, Suang Bualoy Changphueak is an absolute must-try!

There’s also a stall in Warorot Market that has been selling Bua Loy for more than 50 years – check it out! If you run out of time to try this dessert in Chiang Mai, there’s a really popular place to get it in Chiang Rai.

What to Order: Add any toppings that look interesting like the sweet egg (10 baht)

Price: 25 baht plus toppings 

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4. Pedyang Changpuek Roast Duck

Located on the west end of the small North Gate Night Market in Chiang Mai, Pedyang Changpuek Roast Duck serves up generous portions of roast duck, braised pork, and shrimp dumplings. 

The tender roast duck served here is similar to Cantonese roast duck. The sauce is magic, so don’t forget to add it to your plate. And you won’t find better ba mee egg noodles anywhere else in Chiang Mai!

This popular Chang Phuak Gate Night Market offers generous portions at cheap prices.

And the family that runs the cart is both friendly and attentive.

What to Order: Roast Duck with Noodles and Dumplings

Price: small 50 baht ($1.40 USD / large 70 baht ($2 USD)

👉 My pick for the best Chiang Mai temple tour is this City Tour of Viewpoints, Wat Doi Suthep, Wat Chedi Luang, and Wat Pha Lat with a near-perfect 5-Star Rating.

5. Yellow Stir-Fry Food Stall 

This Yellow Stir-Fry food stall (sorry, I have no idea what the name is, but you’ll find it easily in this small night market) is a great spot for travelers who are a bit nervous about trying some of the other food options at the market. Or maybe you are just craving pad thai – who can blame you!? 

Carb up here the night before you do the Monk’s Trail hike. It’s also a great spot for vegetarians, offering fried radish cake and vegan pad Thai (upon request). Locals love the fried mussels and fried seafood plates. 

There’s even a seating area so you don’t have to eat standing up. They don’t mind if you bring food from other stalls here, so long as you buy something from them too. 

What to Order: Pad Thai Shrimp

Price: 50 baht ($1.40 USD)

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6. Lookchin Chang Phuak 

Lookchin Chang Phuak (at least I think that’s the name) is a popular food stall at the North Gate Night Market for sausages. You’ll spot it easily thanks to the Cowboy Hat Lady stall which stands right next to it. 

The specialty here is mini pork balls on skewers, served covered in a delicious sauce – definitely worth trying! Also delicious is the northern Thai sausage, which comes with vermicelli noodles mixed in. They’ll be put on the grill so that they’re nice and hot.

What to Order: Sausage
Price: 25 baht

🤩 My favorite way to get to know a new city is by taking a food tour. This Northern Thai Food Tour will change your life. You’ll try hidden restaurants, street stalls, and local markets that most tourists never find and be transported in an iconic red rod daeng truck with a small group of hungry travelers. Come hungry because you’ll be trying more than 15 different dishes!

7. Grilled Seafood 

If you’re in the mood for fish, the grilled seafood stall at the Puak Gate Night Market is not to be missed! 

Enjoy freshly grilled seafood with an array of condiments and vegetables. Choose from a range of delicious options like shrimp, octopus, clams, sea snails, or whole fish. 

The stall also offers fried radish cake and fried rice with shrimp for those who don’t eat seafood. 

The combinations are endless – just let them know what you want and they’ll grill it up for you!

What to Order: Grilled shrimp and octopus

Price: 200 baht

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8. Homemade Coconut Ice Cream

The vendor at the Chang Phuak Gate Night Market is a popular spot for travelers who want something sweet after filling their tummies with sukiyaki and pork leg. 

In front of the 7-11, you’ll find a young man selling homemade coconut ice cream out of a coconut shell. Choose from toppings of mung beans, peanuts, and condensed milk. 

I tried to hand back the coconut bowl, thinking he reused it, but he told me to just throw it away in the garbage in front of 7-11.

What to Order: Coconut Ice Cream

Price: 30 baht ($1 USD)

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9. Steamed Bao

The steamed bao cart at the Chang Phuak Night Market is a perfect spot for those looking to explore some more of Asia’s cuisine. A bao is a type of steamed bun that is filled with sweet or savory ingredients. I used to go to Chinese dim sum often growing up, and we always had pork bao!

While bao (buns) are not of Thai origin, they are extremely popular and often served with a variety of fillings such as pork or custard cream. 

The menu here includes popular classics such as pork shumai and mantou bread, too.

Choose from bao buns filled with minced pork, custard cream, black bean pandan custard, and taro (although they never had the taro-filled ones when I was there). 

Whether you’re looking for something savory or sweet, the steamed bao cart has something for everyone – and they’re so easy to eat on the go!

What to Order: Any flavor bao

Price: 20 baht ($0.56 USD)

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10. Mango or Durian Sticky Rice

After you’ve finished eating all of the savory dishes at Puak Gate Night Market, the stall near the 7-11 at Puak Gate has just what you need – mango or durian sticky rice. 

Durian is a spiky fruit native to Southeast Asia and is known for its strong smell and creamy texture. So if you’ve been meaning to try it, you can try it here!

Sticky rice, also called glutinous rice or sweet rice, is made from short-grain rice that has been soaked in water until it becomes soft. Then it’s drenched in sweet coconut milk and topped with either fresh mango (most common) or durian (for the adventurous).

The sweetness from the mango or durian perfectly offsets the creamy texture of the sticky rice, making it an ideal snack or light dessert after a night out exploring!

What to Order: Mango Sticky Rice

Price: 50 baht ($1.40 USD)

11. Bread Dessert 

I’ve always been too full to try it, but one day I will – the unique bread dessert from the stall next to the Roast Duck. 

The bread is heated, poured into a plastic bag, wrapped with a rubber band, and then topped with some kind of sweet green sauce. 

Every time I see someone eating this at the Chang Phuak Gate Market, I’m reminded that there are still plenty of exciting new flavors and experiences for me out there!

If you try it, please report back and let me know how it was!

What to Order: Bread Dessert

Price: 25 baht ($0.70 USD)

Other Food to Try at Puak Gate Night Market

This small night market has so many options in addition to the ones listed above! You’ll see meat and vegetable skewers ready for the grill – always a great option. 

There’s a fresh fruit smoothie stand right across from Sukiyaki you can grab. There are fresh coconuts sitting on ice nearby, although I think 50 baht is a little pricey for these.

The best part of this night market is that nothing is too expensive, so you can try a bunch of different things without being worried about the bill! 

Is Chang Phuak Gate Night Market Good for Vegetarians?

At Chang Phuak Gate Night Market, vegetarians can enjoy delicious and healthy dishes like fried tofu with bean sprouts, stir-fried vegetables, and vegan pad thai. Each dish is prepared with fresh and locally sourced ingredients. 

Learn the phrases “ahaan jay” for vegan food and “ahaan mangsawirat” for vegetarian food.

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Chang Phuak Gate Market Tips

• Don’t forget to bring bug spray!

• A raincoat or poncho is smart during the rainy season.

• Most stalls should have change for larger bills, but if not, just head into the 7-11 and buy a small bottle of water – they always have change.

• Many stalls have seating where you can enjoy your food, but you are welcome to bring other foods as long as you order something from the stall.

• If you want a beer with your meal, there is a 7-11 nearby but be sure to be discreet.

• After your meal, head over to nearby Northgate Jazz for live music.

• Many of the dishes are served in plastic bags so bring Tupperware if that bothers you.

• Come hungry or better yet, invite friends to come along and share a variety of dishes!

• Take time to walk around the market and make a plan before deciding what to get – this will save time and allow you to explore all of the different offerings.

👉 My top pick for a hotel in Chiang Mai is POR Thapae Gate because it’s in the perfect location in the Old City and has a great breakfast! The staff here is amazing, and you’ll love having a relaxing place to come home to after a full day of exploring.

History of Chang Phuak Gate (aka White Elephant Gate)

The Chang Phuak Gate Night Market is a must-visit for all travelers to Chiang Mai, and it’s worth taking the time to understand the history of the gate itself. 

Chiang Mai’s Old City is home to four ancient gates, which are Chang Phuek Gate (North), Tapae Gate (East), Chiang Mai Gate (South), and Pratu Suan Dok Gate (West).

The Chiang Mai North Gate – where this night market is located – dates back to the 13th century when it was part of the first wall built to protect the city when it was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. 

By the next century, it was given the name Chang Puak due to a legendary sacred white elephant that walked through the gate and up to Doi Suthep. “Chang” is the word for “elephant” (yes, the same as the Thai beer that you’ve probably drunk), and “Phuak” means “white.”

Another Night Market to Visit: South Gate Night Market

Many tourists stick to the more well-known Night Bazaar and Saturday/Sunday walking streets – those are worth checking out, but other nearby markets have a more local vibe.

Since we’re talking about the Old City gate markets, another one you should visit is the Gate Market aka South Gate Night Market.

It’s open early for breakfast and then again at dinnertime every night, and is one of my favorite night markets to visit. It’s a little bigger than Phuak Gate Night Market – and across the street from the Saturday Walking Street and Silver Temple! 

And if you want to visit a market where even fewer tourists visit – and that’s even cheaper – head over to the Chiang Mai University Night Market.

Where to Stay in Chiang Mai

Budget

My pick for the best hostel in Chiang Mai is Hostel Lullaby. I stayed here multiple times when I was backpacking Thailand. It’s a quiet hostel that attracts more mature backpackers and is in a great location with super comfortable beds that have curtains, and rooms that have A/C. I made so many friends at the complimentary breakfast who I traveled with all over Northern Thailand.

Mid-Range

My top pick for a hotel in Chiang Mai is POR Thapae Gate because it’s in the perfect location and has a great breakfast! The staff here is amazing, and you’ll love having a relaxing place to come home to after a full day of exploring.

Luxury

My pick for the best 5-star luxury hotel in Chiang Mai is Maladee Rendezvous Hotel Chiang Mai, with a near-perfect 10 rating and a swimming pool. This is the tranquil retreat from the city you need! 

Chang Puak Gate Night Market FAQs

Wrap Up: Chiang Mai North Gate Market

When you’re traveling around Thailand, you have to visit the local night markets – they’re one of the things that Thailand is best known for! 

It can feel overwhelming at first to know which night market to go to and what to eat when you get there, so starting at a smaller local night market like Chang Puak is perfect.

The Chang Phuak Gate Night Market, located just outside of Chiang Mai’s north gate,  is a small local market, open every night, and home to one of my favorite places to eat in all of Chiang Mai – Changphuak Suki. 

You also have to try the famous Cowboy Hat Lady’s pork knuckle while you’re here – she was once visited by Anthony Bourdain!

While very meat-heavy, the market also has a few vegetarian options. And don’t forget dessert!

One of my favorite ways to get to know a city is by taking a food tour – and Chiang Mai food tours are fantastic! If you’re looking for a fun way to explore the street food scene, this is it.